Can I make a tailored jacket in a week? Day 3

It's coming along. This is still the first piece, but the stitches are getting faster.

Now I know why suits cost like $1000!

We will see where I am tomorrow.

Can I make a tailored jacket in a week? Day 2

I made some real progress with my coat today. I haven't heard back from my freelance gig, and I think it might be terminated early (no fault of mine), so I spent the day working on my jacket.

I altered the pattern to the muslin, then finally cut out the tweed.

I have this real silky thin polly thread that I used to sew a silk dress for a friend.

I have 4 cones of this stuff so I could overlock the fabric, so I didn't think new thread was needed. I forgot how strong this stuff was.

After I cut out the tweed, I basted tape along the armholes.

Next I cut out the interfacing for the garment. I bought some hair cloth, but it was right pricy, and I feel bad about using that on my first piece, so I decided to go with what the book suggests, a loose weave muslin. I just spent an hour ironing a piece I bought a few weeks ago. I soaked that thing with a spray bottle and steam working those wrinkles out after I washed it. I think I got all possibilities of shrinkage out.

I used my pattern which I cut with no seam allowance and it fit rather well.

I then cut away the fabric from the darts and did another steam pressing with both pieces sandwiched together.

I pinned the fabrics and traced with sharpie (I'm ghetto) on the muslin 2" apart with the grain. I then did a running stitch (the book refers to it as a tailor's stitch, I don't rightly see the difference, but I'm sure there is one) on the lines. I'm going to then go between them and make the spacing only 1" apart, like the book suggests.

I then need to catch stitch the edges of the muslin to keep them in place. Once I do that on the front and back (I'm going to also put a tiny bit of interfacing in the caps of the sleeves), I'll be ready to baste the jacket together for it's first fit. I'd say I'll be ready for that in a couple of days.

Can I make a tailored jacket in a week? Day 1 pt2

While I was waiting for confirmation for my freelance I went on and cut out the muslin.

I really like the fit of the sleeves, length too. They are a bit drapey as they are in the original drawing.

I had to adjust the lapel and decided to put a bit of a curve in it.

I also had to adjust the front of the bodice by moving the center line inward. My upper bust was a bit smaller and I had some drape that I didn't rightly like. I did have to lower the arm holes. They were a bit tight. I also plan on shaping the jacket a bit more than the pattern allots. Im going to add more depth to the darts and soften the curve to the hip line.

All in all small alterations, so I'm happy with that. Im going to go ahead and cut out my tweed once I make these alterations to the pattern pieces. I might do that tonight, but sleep is looking awesome right now.

Can I make a tailored jacket in a week? Day 1

Ooookay....

I altered the pattern.

As usual the most altered parts for me are the shoulders. I didn't have to add much to the pattern, it's pretty close to my size.

YAY!

The next step will be a muslin of the pattern. I think I'll do that later today. Ive been up since 7pm, so I needs some sleep!

Can I make a tailored jacket in a week?

So I got this tweed awhile ago and I've wanted to make something from it for a time. At first I thought I only had enough for a skirt, but I decided to do a quickie lay out of my repro pattern and I was happy to discover I have enough in spades!

The thing is, I want to make it to wear to a social gathering a week from now.

The other thing is, my freelance gig is really hitting high gear and I don't know if I'll have the time to sit down and work on this jacket. But who said I wasn't a glutton for punishment? Hell, I'm writing this post at 5 am and I haven't even gone to sleep yet!

I think Ill give it a shot. The weather is getting cold, sans the 90 degree temp we are expecting for today, and I've wanted to use my coat making guide as reference for the longest time!

So what the hay!

On another note, I laundered all that vintage rayon I got.

It took well to a bucket soak. It was filthy and only one piece ran.

It was the red flowers from the I believe 30s rayon.

I was kinda bummed because it dimmed the crisp white of the flowers in the print.

But hey, what you gonna do, right? It happens and the fabric is still completely usable so I'm not too down about it.

Well thats it from me, I think i need to go to bed now. I have a long day tomorrow...er, today.

October Pattern Showcase!

Last month's crop of pattern lovelies.

This one I've wanted for a while. I have a modest blackface collection, and this one will fit perfectly in it.

This one was missing it's belt. :( Not a big deal, but for what I paid, I wanted it complete, so I sent it back.

This blouse was my one big buy of the month. It's amazing.

This Hollywood is the only maternity pattern from the 30s I've ever seen in a 40 bust. This pattern went up to 42. I think that's awesome.

I got this last one just for the WWII cover.

Halloween Costume Revealed!

Behold, the bearded lady!

Last night was the Halloween Event at the Cicada. It was a lot of fun. We got there early and just hung out for a spell. I attended with my friend Niki, she went as a witch.

I spent an hour prior putting on my beard. It was a HUGE success.

People loved it! I was so surprised. People told me it took real balls to wear a costume like that. Woah, not so fast.

Let's just keep it beard only :)

It was fun to do, and now I think I have a much greater respect for men and beards. Although mine was glued on, they are itch and hair goes everywhere and its crazy. But it was fun.

I thought I have better pictures but people all over the place were taking photographs and Im sure you can find them on the Facebook if you search Cicada Halloween 2010.

The dress turned out great, although I do need to get some better foundation garment for it. I changed the sleeves with the pleats over the shoulder. I fixed the hem, and it was great walking through that club with a lovely diva like gown. I also closed the zipper to the back and put one in on the side because it was just too difficult to get into by myself.

The turquoise velvet was another story. I went to the fabric district here in LA looking in about 6 different stores for a velvet like the one I had. I couldn't find one that pleased me. I'd come across some in a larger fabric store, but they wanted $36 a yard for it! WHATEVER!! Silk velvet, maybe, perhaps, but for polly crap, no way. The velvet I had had a cotton pile (I believe) and was so soft and breathable, so I just bit the bullet and took apart the shawl I had at home. I liked it with a stiffer canvas and was able to squeeze out the bow and belt for it.

It turned out really well and I can wear it with other dresses.

So Id' say all my hard work paid off. It was a fun event with an obscenely long conga line. The after party was pretty tame, but I grabbed some more pictures of the penthouse as the club will loose the lease on the place (Its being restored and used for weddings and such).

But everything was opened up this time. It was great wondering around and looking at everything.

Now that my fun and busy weekend is over, it s back to reality. I've got some more projects lined up, so I won't disappoint.