NewVintageLady

Can I make a tailored jacket in a week? Day 7

Great tater tots, I'm tired.

I did A LOT today. I added the sleeves.

Pressed the seams.

Tacked the seams down.

Added shoulder pads I made. Added the basting tape to the shoulders and front darts.

Cut out the lining.

Overlocked the lining. Assembled the lining. Pressed the lining. I even added a back part in a nice rough brushed wool.

I like doing that to the linings of things I make. I'm sure it has a name, but I don't know what it's called. I even stitched NVL into it.

Why Not?

Last but not least, I added the facing pieces and top collar to the jacket.

Whew. I still have to work that right side up, but at least its attached. I'll let the lining hang a bit more then Ill go on and start stitching it into the jacket.

The pockets I thought were going to be a piece of cake.

Why do I have to make things so complicated? I wanted some stability on the top of the pocket, so I lined it with grosgrain. I plan to do the same thing to the cuffs of the sleeves and the hem of the jacket.

But right now I'm cold and tired I have cramps and I need a shower. I know, too much information, but hey, you've read this far.

Tomorrow night is the event and if I can get the lining in, it hemmed and pressed and get the 3 button holes done, I'm wearing this puppy.

We will have to see....

Can I make a tailored jacket in a week? Day 6 pt2

Today I basted!

I finally finished the other lapel, and was about to change threads!

Yay!

No more skinny slick thread, bring on the cotton!

I used some white cotton I have to baste the jacket together. It went real quick. Up and under, up and under. I even basted in the sleeves!

That's something I never do. But I wanted a real good fit, and as anyone who knows me and sleeves, we don't have the best of relationships.

This one, I'm glad to say, went much better than normal. I added a bit more fullness to the sleeves than in the muslin, so I did have to blend a bit, but nothing so outrageous that it would have made me cry.

I left in the basting stitches for the caps of the shoulders.

This is one step I wouldn't have to do twice.

I put them both in and tried on the jacket for the first time!

I am real happy with the fit. So much so, that I only had to do some minor adjustments. I made the darts in the back waistline a bit deeper, I also adjusted the darts on the front bust to match those on the shoulder better. Once I got all of that done, it was time to begin my construction sewing.

Oh, man, I think I forgot how!

I used a dark navy for the construction thread. I thought that would blend enough.

My first stitch.

I also put on my zipper foot so I could get real close to the basting lines and see them.

My basic/ziz-zag foot I felt was a bit too in the way. This foot switch worked like a champ and I was able to control my stitched better. Went together fairly fast.

Once I sewed the front bust darts I cut the fold over open and down and finished the edges.

The book says to do that. I'm also going to lay a bias strip over the shoulder seam for a bit more stability to the tweed.

Right now the jacket is hanging a bit, but in a while I plan on ironing it and adding that shoulder tape.

Now I get to think on lining. Hmm...I'm going to have to see what I have in the stash. I'm thinking of some striped rayon I have, but I don't think I have enough for the jacket and sleeves, but I do have an old rayon slip that I may use for the sleeves. That could work.

In any case I'm moving right along. I do think I might get this done for Thursday evening!

Stay posted!

Can I make a tailored jacket in a week? Day 6

It's all about the roll of the lapel, right?

That's what everyone tells me.

I've finished the stiffening in the sleeves and all other pieces. I saved the lapels for last.

I liken them to baking a cake. You might have all the ingredients right, but you don't know how well it turned out until it's finished.

I rolled the lapels on a tube of paper I have and basted the seam tape on the fold.

I then laid the facing piece in and tightly tacked it to the fabric, like my books suggest.

I do like the look, it feels so light and frothy.

I do hope the roll turns out as awesome as they are in the pictures in my catalogs.

Once I finish the other lapel, I'm going to put on the pockets then baste the jacket together for it's first fit.

Wish me luck!

Can I make a tailored jacket in a week? Day 5

FINISHED*

*well, finished the large tacking.

The above picture is where I was when I went to bed. The below one is from an hour ago.

Yay me!

I still have to do the caps of the sleeves and the lapel but all the big stuff is done. I'm going to work on the small things later this evening.

WHEW! You just get into a zone when you are doing this tacking stuff. its not fun, but it can be mindless.

Can I make a tailored jacket in a week? Day 4

Whew!

Eight hours of hand sewing. I think I'm dizzy.

Good news is I got both front pieces, the pockets, and the collar done.

Yay me!

The facings for the lapels I'm using a nice cotton to stabilize the bias cut of the fabric. I have to practice on my rolling for when I pin the fabric and baste it.