Overalls progress: Progress on the final.

This weekend I finally began the final for the overalls. I had committed myself to doing the entire garment in flat felled seams, and seeing as how my serger is being a bitch right now with heavy fabrics, and, seeing how redundant it was to surge the pieces, then cut them down, then sew over the cut part, I just was careful to not handle the fabric too much so it would not unravel.

I cut out all the pieces, and I was glad I bought an extra yard of fabric (it was only $4 a yard 60" wide). After I cut the back of the pants, I remembered I was going to make the back button up, and I also remembered that I didn't cut the tab into the seat so I had to recut the back part. Oh well, I guess if I but more fabric and decided to make a jacket I can use the back of the pants that I mis-cut for the sleeves.

First things first, I put the darts into the front.

Next I decided to practice my FF (flat felled) seams on the patch pockets. Boy oh boy did I made them huge. They look awesome.

Then I put together the two front pieces. I just did a what I learned.

Sew half an inch of two pieces opposites together,

cut down one side as close as you can,

fold in and over the other side,

and top stitch. To tell the truth, I didn't feel I did a great job on the top stitching. I know it cant be industrial straight, but I'm a slight perfectionist, hence my loathing for visible stitches.

The seat was another story.

I seemed to have finished it like the front on a pair of man's pants, which I guess is alright, its just the look took me by surprise is all. I cut the seat with a 2" fold over, planning to fold the denim 1" and using that inch of fold for the buttons. Well, I felt that a 1 1/2" flap was a bit more stable, so I adjusted the design and faced the fabric.

The back crotch is a train wreck, but no one is gonna see that so I guess it's alright...

FF-ing the front and back was a headache, especially over the joining crotch seam. I had to rip out the seams twice, then the fabric started to fray so I had to cut it all open and push back the seam and still that was not enough. I used glue on the fray to keep it in place and the nI was able to finish the seam.

*WHEW*

Before I put on the waistband I tried on the pants.

They fit real well, but I had to take in the waist about 1 1/2". I kept pondering where I was going to put the extra darts. Then I decided to place them over the pocket opening. That would not only nip the waist, but it would also give a soft gap to the pocket so it will now be easier to put stuff in them, like keys or a cat.

I've completed most of the pants, all I have to do is hem them and add the buttons. I'm still deciding which buttons to use. I'll have selections narrowed down in the next post.

The bib is coming along splendidly. I may have to dart the underarm (Onda has a larger upper bust than I do), and even though I didn't add ease, the top is a bit large, so I'm re-cutting the back of the bib, oh the magics of pattern drafting...

I did decide on making the straps separate pieces from the back. Just thought that would be easier in the long run.

Once that is done, Ill pretty it all up and may even finish it by Tuesday. I'm very happy with how this is turning out, and I'm glad I did all the prep work I did. Once I'm finished with these. I have some blue denim that I've been sitting on for about 6 months. Those are gonna make awesome blue jeans!

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