Friday, November 15, 2013

My second tailored jacket pt 3: Putting it all together.

More progress on the jacket I'm to wear this evening. I've laid out the front pieces which are to be interfaces and began and finished the process.

Whew. This was the most involved part of this project and I'm just glad that I only interfaced the front pieces.

The back of the jacket is a thick gray wool. I'm glad I used it because not only does it offset visually with the plaid in the front, it hands stiff so no need for any reinforcement.

I also used the remaining wool for the facing of the collar.

I had to piece this part. Because the fabric is so thick, I zig-zaged the pieces together and covered them with some bias tape I made to make them a bit more pretty.

This worked perfectly. It cut down the bulk of the mend and covered it all pretty like.

My next assignment was the breast pockets. I was really looking forward to these pockets. I loves the breast pockets on jackets and wish more garments were made with them.

I marked where the pockets go, and on that curve on the apex line, it was hard to match it up to my grade.

It worked pretty well but on the next jacket I'm going to raise the pockets about an inch or two. From there on I had to watch carefully as I matched up the patterns on each piece. I was super nervous that I cut them off and I wanted to be careful that I didn't stretch the weave too much and create some puckers.

The interfacing was really stiff. That's not a bad thing, it just created that very prominent boob cup. Very happy with the pattern matching. I even like the double thin line down the apex seam. That is a good visual brake up to the horizontal dark blocks and brings your eye down the jacket instead of across.

From there I added the collar facing and pressed it down something fierce. Man, that gray wool was thick, but obedient under a steamed iron.

That's it for today. Tomorrow I'll go over the sleeves and the finishing touches.
Any questions on the project so far? Please ask!
Have a great Friday!


SJ Kurtz said...

NVL sticks the landing and the crowd goes wild! Thank you for the photos: I really appreciate the level of detail you go into with these, so appreciative I will get off my backside and buy a pattern on your store.

Shelley J said...

Aw, thank you SJ! Much, much appreciated.

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