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My second tailored jacket pt1 : Making the muslin.

Alright, I've decided. I'm planning on making another tailored jacket.
The first thing I had to do was alter the pattern and do a muslin. I used my old slopers as a guide for the 38 bust pattern and made the mock up from there.

The collar for this jacket is joined to the front lapel, so I cut it accurately to my neckline and made sure the back collar was cut to the correct length.

The first mock up was much too large. I didn't add anything to the pattern from using the sloper. I didn't think it was going to be that large a difference.

If you look at the princess seams of the jacket, I can see I have to adjust the front seam to match to the apex of my breast. Right now, because it's so large, it's too far out.

One thing I also notices on the mockup was the waist was off. At first I was going to shorten the whole jacket, but then I realized that I needed to take in the pattern pieces about 2", which is funny, because that was the amount I lengthened them from the original using my slopers.

I marked the waist where I'm going to take it in on the pattern.

Because I had to take in the apex seams in the front of the jacket, I made sure to adjust the back of the jacket seams so they would match up at the shoulder. That was a pretty involved adjustment, but I made it work.

The sleeve was also a bit too large at the cap, so I shaved off a few inches. As I've complained about in the past, I've always had to adjust the shoulders of my garments.

Tomorrow is my second mock up, and by then I'll be ready to cut the fabric. Oh! I hope I can have this made in time fro Friday.
Have a great day!


  1. Good work. I'm learning from your process. I've never made a tailored jacket. Personally, I think the longer length looks good. I can tell already that it's going to be a great jacket.

  2. This is going to be great - my biggest problem with doing this sort of thing is that the armscye is always too low (because I'm short and have a big bust). I haven't come up with a consistent method that works in terms of fixing that. Do you have that issue to deal with? How do you fix it so that you can raise your arms?

  3. Hey girl, you look so cute in your blue headwrap. Have you lost weight since you used that pattern? I think you look smaller than when I first "met" you. I enjoy you and your blog. Love your drawings too. You are one talented woman.

  4. Helene, the arms are always a big issue for me. I have square shoulders, so that entire area is always altered on my garments. I tend to raise the armscye in two places, the actual seam line beneath the armpit, but also, I add extra to the front garment by adding more to the bust at the side of the arm, as seen in the picture. I think that's the trick to a good arm fit, especially adding that extra material to the back as well. I often over compensate there.


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