Alright, I've decided. I'm planning on making another tailored jacket.
The first thing I had to do was alter the pattern and do a muslin. I used my old slopers as a guide for the 38 bust pattern and made the mock up from there.
The collar for this jacket is joined to the front lapel, so I cut it accurately to my neckline and made sure the back collar was cut to the correct length.
The first mock up was much too large. I didn't add anything to the pattern from using the sloper. I didn't think it was going to be that large a difference.
If you look at the princess seams of the jacket, I can see I have to adjust the front seam to match to the apex of my breast. Right now, because it's so large, it's too far out.
One thing I also notices on the mockup was the waist was off. At first I was going to shorten the whole jacket, but then I realized that I needed to take in the pattern pieces about 2", which is funny, because that was the amount I lengthened them from the original using my slopers.
I marked the waist where I'm going to take it in on the pattern.
Because I had to take in the apex seams in the front of the jacket, I made sure to adjust the back of the jacket seams so they would match up at the shoulder. That was a pretty involved adjustment, but I made it work.
The sleeve was also a bit too large at the cap, so I shaved off a few inches. As I've complained about in the past, I've always had to adjust the shoulders of my garments.
Tomorrow is my second mock up, and by then I'll be ready to cut the fabric. Oh! I hope I can have this made in time fro Friday.
Have a great day!