Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Dressing Movie monsters pt 1: The Wolfman Coat

Hello lovely people.

This past weekend was a busy one as far as sewing. I got a rush job from the company I do sewing for, for a wool coat for a Wolfman statue. Cool! You all know how much I like a challenge. I do. Nothing makes me try harder than a difficult project and a deadline, but this project was a doozie.

First off, I got the fabric and materials on Friday, and it was to be completed on Tuesday afternoon. I didn't have a men's pattern to even jump from, but luckily I mentioned that and one was delivered with the supplies. the thing was, the pattern was a modern single button jacket (costume like) where the 
breast tail of the coat were two different pieces, not to mention the pattern was a XS, S, M! AHHHH!

Grabbed this one online.
To make this coat, all I had were the images above and moxy. I started with the measurements that I was given from the coat (the other Wolfman statue in the picture above), and the original images from the movie. Because this pattern was modern and crappy and a costume, it didn't have any finished garment sizing information printed anywhere on any of its large obnoxious sheets.

I started by grading the pattern first all the while joining the bodice and the skirt of the jacket together as one piece. The jacket was nipped in the waist quite a bit, and the skirt had a bit of a flair. Looking at the original image above, I'm glad that it looks like a big old sausage on him.

I then shaped the lapel accordingly.

Keep in mind I had to wing a double breast design from a single breast jacket.

Ned didn't put up a fuss as I used him for all my fitting needs (thanks man).
Ned is so tall, I had to get on my step stool to do the shoulder seam. The original jacket design had a really unnecessary slanted shoulder seam that was silly, so I corrected it.

From there we move on to the sleeve. Normally, I'm all about two piece sleeves, but of COURSE this design does not have one and of COURSE the pattern does! Ugh.

I traced off the sleeve, taking liberties with the second piece and made a one piece sleeve for this coat.

Now on to cutting. The fabric that was used for this coat was a real nice wool felt. Both sides had equal tooth, so I was fortunate to not have to worry about which side was the 'correct' side to use. I did, however, have to leave the back of the coat open, essentially cutting it into two pieces so that each half of the coat could be placed on the figure.
Marking a little extra lap for the back of the coat.
Mmmm, I smell lapels in the morning.
Tailor's tacks mark the center front of the coat. 
Whew! Getting this far was tiring, but challenging. I like that. Although this is in essence a prop garment, I still put a lot of craftsmanship into it. Also, I may be making another, so the pattern sizing is all taken care of.

More tomorrow!


Gail Ann Thompson said...

You are one amazing lady!!!

GBL said...

My head was spinning trying to keep up with you - but what a great project - I would be petrified taking on such a challenge but I love reading how you work out each step.

susied said...

I have tried grading some of my vintage patterns and each one was quietly put away and the muslin thrown in the trash! I just cannot get the hang of it - I envy your knowledge on how to correctly do this and have a wonderfully fitted garment!

Well done!

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