I've made this dress six times...

And I'm not tired of it. 

In fact, I have it down to a science and can make this dress from cut out to hem in 7 hours. Yeah baby!

Notches Demystified.

I remember when I first started to sew. 

I'd make my stitch, let's say, on a sleeve seam, and be puzzled as to why it felt tight around the arm. I sewed it correctly, the sleeve fit, and I'd matched the appropriate notches for what the pattern called. That's just it. Often, people take the placement notches of matching a pattern piece with the actual notches that are used to help the drape of a garment. A lot of times, new sewers (and some of us seasoned ones, lets be honest) don't see the value in notching a seam that calls for it. A lot of us don't know what seams to notch and which ones not to notch. Some of us notch them all, and that is just a whole world of hurt. I figured it was time to talk about this simple and rather mis understood sewing technique, explain how I use it, and give you all some insights into why its a valuable simple tool in garment construction.

First off, lets define a notch.

In this post, I'll refer to a notch as a subtraction of the fabric from the seam allowance that allows for the stitched seam to lay unobstructed. Hey, what's unobstructed? I'll get to that later.

Sew Cornered: Tips for sewing on the pivot

Per the request of one of my lovely followers, I thought I'd offer a little tutorial of sewing a cornered piece of fabric. Oh, the pivoted corner against a gathered stitch, NEVER an easy part to sew. One of the repors I offer has a cornered yoke at the bust and I know that can be difficult.

Here is what I suggest:

This technique relies on paying attention to your seam allowance (SA). It will do a world of good for you to mark your SA ahead of time.

It's the little things: Hook and Eyes

I've always loved vintage notions. They have details you can't find with modern ones. Sometimes it's the actual materials, or the wicked deco packaging. Other times it's the items themselves before the advent of zippers.

Perhaps that's why I find these hook & eyes so amazing. The range of styles and sizes and uses. The large ones I'm sure were used for fur, or looped over with thread and used for coats. The small ones delicate enough for sheer silk numbers of infant clothes.

Here is a small sample of my hook & eye collection. What? Surprised I have one? Oh, then you all don't know me by now :)

These are the coat hooks. They are HUGE!

It's the little things...

Hi all.

I thought I'd start a new segment on the blog about all the little touches I often put in some of my garments. When I'm out wearing something I've made, often people notice a detail here or there that I could have easily left out. It makes me feel great when someone notices!

This blouse I'm sure you are all familiar with.