Building a Dust Bowl wardrobe.

Perhaps it's the encroaching warmer weather but I've been thinking about the light breezy and ruffled fashions of the women of rural middle America. The farmer's wives and working gals who wanted the latest fashions but could not or being where they were, were often a year or so behind.

It's that transition phase from the dropped waistline of the 20s but before the high puffy sleeves of the mid to late 30s. I see lots of flowing lawns, and brightly colored cottons and great ruffled sleeves.

The colors also appeal to me. I grabbed some prints I was looking at at ReproductionFabrics.com and if you have never been there, you have been warned. They carry the most amazing repro textiles from as early as the Victorian Era to the late 50s. Amazing pattern, all cotton and all I want dresses of!

Here is the main palette I'm looking to work from.

New Pattern Day Yay!

Thanks for all the feedback, ladies. Ive decided to give it a go with my newest repro pattern, the same one I made my dustbowl dress from.

Thanks again!
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Depression era dress in real life

Welp, the BBQ got rained out, wouldnt you know it! Some friends and I spent a lot of time getting our outfits together, and as an alternative, a friend invited us over to his place for cocktails and such. So we decided to make a day of it.

First my friends Jen, Bruce and I went to the 101 Diner and had breakfast. Then, we drove to Pasadena and decided to go to the Antique mall there. Well, we so got caught in a rain shower and Jen and I were huddled under one umbrella saying 'crap' every two steps.

But once we got to the mall, we had fun looking around for a good hour and a half. I just looked, Jen bought a great 40s dress with the entire bodice done in pintucks. That is where this picture was taken. Its an odd angle. I look like a bean.

After that, we went to our friends place, chatted and had cocktails (I made my own Old Fashioned for the very first time) and then some of us went for dinner. Then I came home, I was pooped. I think Im still recovering.

The 'How not to make a jacket this way'-Way to make a Jacket

Okay, I cut a lot of corners in making this jacket, but it did turn out rather well, so I guess, no, I know I got lucky.

I thought I needed a cover up to go with my depression era dress, but I didnt have anything in my wardrobe that I liked. My mind kept going back to the HBO tv show, Carnivale' (can you believe each episode cost near $4 million to make!?) when I was thinking of what to make, and I loved the flowing sleeves of some of the dresses in that show.

I decided to use a pattern I have from the late 20s, but there is one catch, its a dress. I didnt feel like doing a mock up, I had already sized the dress to me, so I got creative and added about an inch to the front for fold over.

I used some really cool drippy fabric I had to make the sleeves really drape. I have no idea what the fabric is, probably a polly blend, but it drapes real well.

The cover up isnt suppose to fold over or even close, that way I could make it easier on myself. I did, however, during the making, decide to get creative with the collar treatment and took some cotton doilies I had.

I cut them proper, and using the facing I had created for this dress in jacket form, backed the see through doilies with that.

It turned out rather well.

The arm holes, despite me cutting them down, are high like a shirt instead of a jacket, but thats no huge deal.

I did a rolled hem on the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket (which still needs to be done). Im pleased with it and it does look great with the dress. Mismatched enough to eel depression era, but matched enough to feel presentable.

I also made my only purchase for this outfit. Some modern oxfords by Steve Madden. I have a tremendous shoe deficit in my wardrobe, and I was in a pinch, so I went to my local shoe warehouse. They were having a HUGE sale and I got these $70 shoes 50% off. I got them mainly because they are street soles, which are very hard to find lately. It was these or Keds, which would have worked, but I wanted something a bit more dressy.

NRA inspired bag

I decided to whip up a pattern for the wood bag handles I had. Inspired by the NRA bag I found, its a simple bag with a squared bottom, lined in whatever fabric I could find. This time, a green check thing. The outside is made of the same heavy linen I made the cloche from.

Today I cut out the pieces (making the lining a bit larger for ease) and overlocked them. Ill construct the bag tomorrow. Noting fancy, at least that is my hope.

Depression Dress Progress

I cut out my 20s dress today.

Im normally a spread and shift kind of gal when it comes to grading, but because I already had a tracing of this pattern in a 42 bust, I Decided to give the old slash and spread technique a try. This dress is fairly simple, and I knew the upper bust would fit fairly well, so my main concern was the full bust and the hips.

The dress is suppose to fit loose, gunny sack like, I suppose, so I didnt have too much worry when I was doing it. I laid out the pattern, put on the bra that I was going to wear with the dress, and measured myself.

First off, as I always do on every pattern I ever make up, I lower the angle of the shoulders.

I apparently have rather flat shoulders, and no neck, so I always have to cut the back of the blouse/dress as well. Those are default alterations for me.

I knew I didn't want to bother with the yoke because I knew it was fine the size it was. All I really had to do was extend the bust about an inch and a quarter, and lengthen the dart. By the by, tomato paste cans make excellent fabric weights.

After the cutting and alterations of the pattern, I checked the matching sides (because this pattern has no notches) and was pleased with the outcome. I am going to add a gusset to this dress because of the kimono (or as the pattern says 'kimona') sleeves for more flexibility.

With the back of the dress, I had to really taper the waist, as I um...have, um...shelf butt. We all have imperfections, lets move on.

Now onto the detailing fabric. I did use my 40s vintage fabric, and as with everything that Ive made from it, I made sure I cut the tightest pieces I could to save as much fabric as I could.

Actually, Ive become rather good at doing that, vintage fabric or no. I did use linen for the backing of the accent pieces. I didint want to cut two if the vintage fabric. Why waste I say?

So I have the dress cut out, and while searching online, I saw this super cute NRA bag. I have to make something like it. I have wood handles like this, so all I need to do is choose a nice fabric and Im all set!

Im excited by the dress. Im going to tailor tack a few marks (mainly the bust darts) this evening and overlock all the pieces tomorrow. I will probably be finished with midday tomorrow, if I get my act together.

Hattie Goodness

Listening to Mark Lanegan as I type this.


Ive almost finished with my cloche for the depression picnic later this month. Im using a rather stiff linen for the outside and lining, but because the colors were so stark, I interfaced the hat with a cotton to keep the blue bright, and the cream crisp.

With this cloche, as opposed to the others I have done, I raised the back quite a bit, almost making it bonnet like. That way my hair can squish out the back and wont hinder my neck movements. I also curved the sides down more, tear drop like.


Ive seen that look on so many other hats, I wanted to try it.


I kept the pleats, I do like them so, but with the band, I also did some pleats, and some hand stitching in blue.


I was going to sew it in a matching thread of the cream color, but I think the blue stitching is a nice touch.


I may add a flower to it. I haven't decided yet. Ill finish it tomorrow, early.
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Depression Era Expo

Today was a fun day. I went to the Santa Monica Vintage Expo with some of my vintage friends. I knew I would be going for a few days, and having been last year, I knew it was going to be cold. My entire thought process on what I was going to wear was 'I want to be comfortable and warm'.

I didn't have a solid era in mind, more a feeling. I did want to make the outfit mid 30s in feeling, but looking at my criteria, comfortable and warm, my options were limited.

I went through 3 outfits, finally choosing a wool tweed skirt I made, a rayon blouse I made from a modern SImplicity repo pattern, some 20's cotton lace stockings I got a few years back, my good ole 40's shoes, a tan wool button up I got at the thrift store 5 years ago (love that sweater), my NRA MOP pin that was a gift, and the 20's inspired cloche in my etsy store.

I was very comfy and warm. I was also surprised by the compliments on my outfit. Someone even said, "Wow, you look very depression era today." YES!!!!!! I got a lot of compliments on my cloche, even a designer pulling me aside and saying I should sell them. Good idea!

There was a lot of 80s stuff at the expo this year, and tons of 20s stuff priced too high for the average person to buy. I did see one silk shawl from the late 20s that was in beautiful condition. The seller was even asking a fair price for it, but alas, I am not 'depression era' in look only. I even helped my friend Jen 'approve' a lovely lawn dress from the 30s for the depression era picnic later in the month.

She bought her dress from the Woodland Farms Antiques booth. I was able to tell the lovely lady how much I and some of my friends adore her online store. She is a real nice lady.

After a lot of fun looking and running into a lot of vintage folks, a gang of us went to the bowling alley behind the expo hall and had lunch. It was fun.

Then, a small group of us went for a cocktail at Tiki-Ti.

Where I discovered Jen was a hard core regular there,over 10 years, and even had her own cocoanut cup. Very classy.

It was a fun day, and Im tired. But now I have to get ready for tomorrow. Im going to the Cicada Club.

Oh the fun life of a vintage gal.

New Pattern and Progress

First off, Id like to give a huge thanks to all the patrons of my etsy store. I sincerely appreciate the business!
On that note, Id like to announce my newest repro pattern. An apron!


I great repro apron sized for 40 to 42 bust. This WWII apron has great detailing and limitless possibilities!

Ive made progress in some of the projects I have coming up. I picked out my fabrics for my depression era dress. Im trying not to spend any money, so I looked through my fabric stash to see what I had. Ive chosen a mint green linen, and for the yolk, some lovely flower fabric.


"Gee, that flower pattern looks amazing! Where did you get it from?" Well, Im glad you asked. Its a bit outside the era, but its from the mid 40's. Its an amazing cotton, and Ive been wanting to use it in something for a while. I think this might do the trick. Now I have to choose buttons, oh joy.

The cloche Im going to do is going to be a modified version of the one I created here and here. Im going to extend the brim a bit and make it sit more like a bonnet. Ive chosen a light eggshell linen with blue linen accents.


My last fabric selection is for the great scalloped sleeved mail order I posted a bit back.

Ive had this fabric in mind for this pattern for a while, and I do hope I have enough to make it floor length. I think I can manage. Its sheer and Ive never done a see through dress before, so Im excited to see how it will turn out.


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Make due and Mending

This has been a week of mending and finishing past projects.

I repaired 6 pairs of pants that I had made. Contrary to popular belief, yes, you still need to maintain clothing you make.

The 40s corduroy slacks that I made had a rather loose weave and well, kept pulling. At first I paid no mind, and then it got noticeable. Crud.

To make it easy on myself (and not have to take off the waist band) I opened the damaged area, and using a modern cheat, I applied stitch witchery over the damaged area, and covered that with a strip of thin cotton.

I then resewed the seam, about 1/5" in. To adjust for the loss of size, I redid (or on once case completely opened) the front darts. This is a fine fix for me, besides, these paints might become a skirt some day anyway.

Another project I completed was the second of my varied run of three of my blackface series "Happy Bellboy with Towel and Smiling Mammy in a Flower Dress". Ive always had an obsession with blackface content, or the more PC term used now, 'black americana'. Yeah, whatever.

These are more crafty in that their bodies are sewn like dolls. I made the pattern for them, then sewed them as well. I like the process of hand sewing, which I had to do to put them together.

The bodies are sewn to the paper with thread and backing buttons so the rag paper wouldnt tear. They are rather time consuming, but seeing as how I finished my first pair in '06, its kind of interesting to see how I have improved sewing wise as I finished these. I have one more pair to do. Perhaps they will get me back into sewing.

Ive been in a bit of a sewing rut lately. I have great fabric, and cool patterns but I dont *need* anymore clothes right now. So, not much sewing. I do have an upcoming project in the works.

Ive been invited to a 'depression era' picnic near the end of February, and I dont have a ting to wear. I want something nice, light and very dust bowl. Im going to use this pattern and make a linen cloche. I think that would work. Anyway, Im excited about it, and will post progress!

Now its on to an evening of darning socks. Dont be jealous.