Stout Woman Revolution: This pattern isn't my size!

Truth be told, one reason I gave up on a lot of modern patterns was the way they were sized. Not only did they have monstrous ease built in to often accommodate lazy grading, but modern proportions can be a headache to a stout figure.

A lot of what determines a good fit for us is where you carry your extra weight. Do you have it in your front, in the back, even all over? Are you pear shape, hourglass, top heavy" Is it in your arms, chest, or thighs? Sheesh!

Stout Woman Revolution: Choosing the right sleeve.

Long sleeve. Cap sleeve. Kimono sleeve. Drop shoulder sleeve. Flutter sleeve. Short sleeve. Cuffed sleeve. Two piece sleeve. Fitted sleeve. Sleeveless.

Oh, what to choose.

It's no secret the love I have for sleeves.

I select sleeves for garments based on my confidence level. I'm a plain type of sleeve gal for most outfits. Either a basic design for day dresses, bracelet length for winter dresses. I used to lack the confidence in displaying my arms and made all my sleeve lengths at least past the elbow. But then I got brave, and started doing shorter sleeves and, well, the earth did not explode after all.

I just don't think my arms are my strongest asset. There is nothing wrong with that, but oh, how I do so envy the larger ladies who can work a flutter sleeve.

*Gasp*

So feminine and frilly and wonderfully womanly. Delicious. Or, her more practical cousin, the cap sleeve. Squeeee! In a contrasting fabric from the garment's bodice? Be still my heart. Or, for the stout woman who can do it with pride, sleeveless. I worship you.

But, as I've said many times before, I'm about making what you have work the best it can, and for me, I feel the most confident with sleeves that cover most of my forearm.

It is a personal choice.

How daring do you feel? How safe do you wan to be? Even with all the decisions of fabric and choosing which notions to use, sleeves are often something that most just take at face value. But then there are some outfits where the sleeve is the *best* part.

If there are some tips I can give with sleeve selection it would be these:

1) Choose a sleeve based on the seasonal design of the garment.

If it's a sporty number, chances are you don't want to do a full length cuffed sleeve.

2) If supplementing a sleeve, do a mock up first.
New sleeves have to be adjusted to the bodice of the design you are using. Subtle alterations from the opening to how far the shoulder length needs to be extended should be looked at. I've ruined many a garment by not planning ahead.

3) Don't overpower the design of the outfit.

If you choose a fantastic sleeve, make sure the outfit plays with it, not against it. Too many design elements can harm your overall intent for the garment.

4) Play with fabrics.

Two tone your design, or use a different fabric to use up left over material. Buttons, bows, cuffs. Yay!

Thats it for now.

Happy Sewing!!

Stout Woman Revolution: The Shirtwaist dress.

I'm particular about what I think looks best on the stout woman. Princess seamed dresses get a no in my book. Its not that the dresses are ugly, far from it, its that particular style overwhelmingly isn't the most flattering for a larger shape. That style is meant to fit close to the body, gliding along the curves of a woman.

Most larger versions of that type of dress all have to be 'watered down' in a way in order to smooth over our lumps. Then what's the point? The style of the dress looses its purpose, and you are just stuck in a sack.

Hey, Im always the first to say even if its made in your size does not mean you should wear it. I don't find equality in silly things like that. I champion wear what looks best on you so you then will feel your best. Hate me if you want.

*There is something particulary charming about the 4721, I cant figure out just what yet.

I covered a lot of this when I did the do's and don'ts of how to flatter your stout figure. I championed the shirt waist, why, because its the most versatile, not just for a larger figure, but in general, one shirtwaist can go miles.

*The 30's 1683 is one of my favorites in my collection.

*That 1550 I've made more times than I can count.

No, they are not boring. You have more button, accent, and fabric choices with a shirt waist. Its an iconic staple of not just the stout, but the whole vintage look.

There are soooooo many different types as well! Ruffles, shawl collars, square necklines, multi panel bodices, buttons, sash fronts, notched or band collars, etc. So many choices!

When I see a lonely little shirtwaist next to an elaborate bodice dress, I snap it up. I know Ill get more mileage out of that one pattern, than that 'fancy' dress. Unless that fancy dress pattern is super cute, then why brake up the set. *wink wink*

Don't underestimate the power of the shirtwaist!

Stout Woman Revolution: Mail order patterns.

I know some ladies who sew who don't bother with mail order patterns. Sure, they are not name brand, sometimes they might need a but more handling than a Simplicity, or a Du Barry, but often for the stout woman, they were the stout ladies' only recourse.

Mail order patterns were in nearly every publication directed to women, and the fast majority were available in much large sizes than the name brands. I mean even Butterick has roots in mail order. Sure, I have some Simplicity patterns in a 50 bust, but I have seen three times as many in mail order form, and one in a 56 bust!

Id like to think the reasoning is the same as Lane Bryant, mail order was a smaller demographic, but with it you could cater to an audience who didn't have much representation. A lot of store patterns start at 30 bust and stopped at 38 bust, or 48 bust in some of the more expanded lines. Ive seen a vast majority of mail orders start at 38 bust.

So the drawings might not be as pretty, and often the envelopes were whatever the company who ordered them was able to ship them in, and true, some of the styles were a few years behind the trends, but if you wanted options in size, price, and style, mail order for the stout woman was the way to go.

Here are some mail orders from my personal collection.