I'm jealous of my own pattern collection.

Listening to my 5 star list in iTunes.
Playing now is Rufus Wainwright 'Hallelujah'

I was flipping through some of my patterns today, preparing to take on a project Ive wanted to do for a while, and I thought Id share some of my recent awesome ones. All are before 1945, and 40 bust and over.

I just think this 30s one is so old Hollywood. Those sleeves are crazy, and seeing it in a larger size is so rare.

This mid 30s one is the same as the one above. So cute, and so about the day Hollywood glamor to me.

This late 30s Butterick caught my eye because its a pattern of boleros. Ive only found these types of patterns in 32 bust. So yay! They did make them larger.

Now playing, Nick Cave 'Bring it On'

This mid 30s mail order is just too adorable. I just love the curved front and sleeves and buttons, everything about it!

This mid 30s McCall skirt I LUST for. I cant tell you how often I pull it out and stare at it. I just love this thing. Its so simple, so classic and because there is a seam up the middle front, totally adjustable for my ponch! Yay!

Lastly is my newest project. This 1942 DuBarry Pattern is a wower to me. I love this thing so much, and it resembles a 30s dress I was lusting over earlier in my Lane Bryant scans.


The sad thing is, there is a piece missing, the blouse back, and since it is a gathered back, it will take a bit of adjusting from a pattern I already own to get it looking awesome. Im going to go all out and make the top a belted back. I cant wait!

I adjusted the pieces, and I really didint have to do much, but I wanted to add a bit more flair on the skirt, which is the piece Im going do first. I have this lovely rayon crepe blend in purple and black that Im going to use.

Now playing Massive Attack 'Angel'

Practicing true 'Make Due and Mend' form, I am using some early prints form my repo patterns that were bad. The paper was too good to just trash, so Im tracing off my personal patterns on it. I have enough left for one more pattern.

Now, if my cat will get up from my table seat, Im going to have some chocolate chip cookies I made (vegan) and some tea while I listen to The Smiths.


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Notion Gizmos

Its Tom Waits tonight.

Yes, I loves me some sewing gadgets. There are all sorts of things out there to aide in sewing, and none of them are more interesting, or useful, than the vintage ones.

This first one is my plastic bobbin holder. Its seen better days, much better, but it was my mother's so it will never be replaced.

This next one I love simply for its graphics. Late 50s more likely, back when women were euphoric in their girdled dresses doing housework and such.

Speaking of girdles...Im leery of the elastic. Im sure its past its prime.

Same for this one, but lookit that hair!

Apparently home pleating was big. As well as the ways to do it. I find it interesting that now if you have enough yardage, you can just send off and have your fabric pleated.

I am all about that pleating measure thing, though. CANT wait to try it out!

And the bevy of self belt making kits. I have a lot of these. Many different brands.

Im also somewhat of a seam gauge collector. I LOVE the vintage ones, and this one (probably 60s) is my favorite. There isnt anything this thing cant measure!



This is the latest addition to my collection. I got it mainly for the calatin buttons, but look i the upper left, a SCALLOP RULER!!!!!! How awesome is that! VERY!
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Black Hair pt 1

I was having a phone conversation with my nearly 90 year old Grandmother the other week and other than her consistently telling me I need to move back to Kentucky, she had a sound reason why I was in the job slump Im in.

"Do you still wear your hair like that," she asked.

"Like what," I said.

"You know, that way."

"The way it grows out of my head?"

"Well, yes. You need to go to a black hair dress and get a perm. Then Im sure when you go for a job interview, you will look more presentable. You would be surprised how something like that would keep you back." I said thank you as I normally do when she says something insufferable and we ended the call.

Later that day, at the bus stop, I was approached by an older black woman, about late 40s, intrigued by my hair.

"Why do you have it covered up?" she asked. "You wear it natural, right?"

"I do," I replied. I had a bandanna on, mainly because my hair was pretty wild that day, but also I was just out running errands, and the wind was strong.

"What, are you ashamed of it?"

"Not at all, my head is cold."

"Oh," she said slightly embarrassed.

"I love my hair," I resounded. She was happy to hear me say that and we went on and had a good ten minute conversation about black hair.

"Black women are so broken when it comes to their hair," she said, and I couldn't have agreed more.

Let me reiterate.
I love my hair.

Not as in, 'I love the way my hair is styled today', or 'I love the cut I have this week', but, I love my hair. I love its texture, its color, its sheen, its body, its behavior, everything about it. And this love did not come easy, especially growing up as most black women do, with an instilled belief that your natural hair is wrong.

I got my first perm at about 8 years old. For people who dont know, a perm for black hair does the opposite of what a perm for white hair does. It makes it straight. The term 'relaxer' seems to be the new thing to say, but I grew up with all the hair dressers saying 'perm' so that is what Im going to say.

My mother did it for me with home kits, and I had so much hair that it often took two or even three (and those were the adult sizes). So I got a perm roughly every two months, and my hair was washed every two weeks.

The early years were the hot comb, and lets just say that a stove heated oily metal comb nearly singeing your scalp for three hours bi-weekly isn't too much of an improvement to having your scalp chemically burned by a white mayonnaise solution. But, thats what little black girls were subjected to. That is what we were told would make us pretty.

When I was about 12, and my mother got lazy, I didn't get my hair washed for nearly a month. The sides, in front of my ears started to thin, and then fall out. I lost a lot of hair on that washing, and I could tell my mother was a bit saddened by it. It was then that I thought, why do I have to go through this, why cant I wash my own hair?

When I was about 14, I was allowed to make some of my own hair decisions. By then I had a 'wave' or I guess if you are using 80s lingo, a jerry curl. It kept my hair and scalp constantly wet, musty, and ruined many a pillow case. Not to mention my face often broke out.

By 15, I started using less and less of that 'curl' solution, and i noticed my hair felt better. Soon I stopped using it at all, and just washed it and oiled my scalp (another black hair myth Ill get to later).

When I got to high school, I realized the way I had grown up with my hair didn't have to be the only way to wear my hair. I stopped putting stuff on it, and I started washing it and twisting it, and it grew. My sides even began to fill out.

But then, out of pressure from my Grandmother, I was sent to the beauty parlor and got a perm. My hair was straight, shiny and down to my shoulders. Even my brother said it looked good. I felt not dirty, but violated in a way. This wasn't me, and I was so not a conformer. At 16, that was the last perm I got.

Some years, tattoos and a few piercings later, I realized I needed to revisit my hair. I bleached and dyed it for the very first time, ever! This was when I began to experiment with vintage hairstyles.

I was living in San Francisco, still wearing my hair naturally, but noticing it wasn't doing too well. I was trying all sorts of 'natural' black hair care products, as it was popular now to have your hair 'chemical free', but I realized something. It was these products that were making my hair brake, fray and frizz in the first place. A lot of them had mild 'relaxers' in them to make the hair more 'manageable'. Thats a bunch of shit, I thought to myself.

So I threw them all out, and started as natural as I could. Castile soap, jojoba oil, vitamin e oil, burdock root oil. It was a revelation, and I haven't looked back. Its amazing how your hair can tell you what it needs if you just pay attention.

I brought this aspect up to the woman at the bus stop during our hair pow wow, and she concurred.

"They are pretty harsh on your hair." I also told her I didn't oil my scalp. She was pretty surprised by that one.

"I wash my hair every 3 days. I rub a bit of vitamin e oil in it, and Im fine," I said. "I don't do any of the ritual I was raised with, and my hair is better off for it." I could tell she admired me. One for being able to take a stand about my hair at my age, and her never having that opportunity, but also that I was perfectly at peace with my hair. I embraced it. I didn't want it to be super straight, or a comical giant afro. It was my natural hair tied back with a scarf because it was cold that day, no more no less. But it made me realize, I AM taking a stand with my hair and I didn't even know it.

Here is my hair as of this morning, freshly washed, non styled or combed.

Im bucking over a century of common law wisdom associated with black women's hair by wearing it the way it grows from my head. Amazing isn't it?

New Pattern Day Yay!

I recently had my 100th sale in my etsy store. Thanks to all those who have and are supporting my efforts. Its so appreciated.

To celebrate, Ive introduced a new repro pattern!

A delightful double breasted dress with a shawl collar. Its an original NRA pattern, continuing with my NRA edition of vintage repros. I adore this dress, have even made it up.

More info about it on NVL.

Take a look and thanks!

We're mature enough to talk about menstruation, right?

Well Aunt Flow came for her visit. I mean, geeze, usually she gives me some warning. Nope, she just dropped on by this month, no word or telegraph. I tell ya, it was a total surprise.

It got me to thinkin' I wonder how ladies in the Golden Era took care of their monthly visits. So I looked through some of my old catalogs, to see what types of products they used, and oh boy, am I GLAD for the invent of modern adhesive!

I dont think I could have dealt with all the clips and hooks and belts and seat guards, sheesh!

Here are some scans from some of my 30s and 40s catalogs highlighting some of the products that were for the gal on the go with her monthly.

From my Montgomery Wards '36 catalog.

Even Lane Bryant had us stout gals covered with properly sizes menstruation belts. Of course, Sears the top of the everyday department store gave all women variety and confidence in this department.

These are war time scans and with gals working to do their parts, manufactures wanted to make extra sure women had confidence during their monthlies. I mean, look at that picture, the one with the multiple drawings.

I had no idea you could dance during your period! Thank you, Kotex.

Lane Bryant catalog winter '35-'36

I have a treat for you stout ladies, a sample of the wondrous Lane Bryant catalog from the mid 1930s! This is one of my favorite eras in fashion, and to see it done up with the most fashiontabulious styles in a catalog where I can fit all the clothes is a real delight. Yes, this is the the same Lane Bryant that we know of today, and in my heart I do so wish they would go back to their creator's origins in so many things.

This is my third LB catalog. They used to be so hard to find, but Ive gotten these few in the last year alone!

Here are some samples of the catalog.

Here is the cover of this season's catalog. Dont you just love that coat!?

The catalogs always had a letter from the creator.

I *love* that wrap number in the center. LOVE it! Im going to try to reproduce it using some patterns I already own.

*GASP* I LOVE that corduroy suit to no end. Its spectacular.

Knitwear is one of the things that is lacking in my wardrobe. So seeing these lovely sweaters is delightful.

More stockings. I thought the 'Adap-top hose' were interesting.

Check-it the lace ups!

For a bit more history, especially if you have some vintage LB stuff, check the Vintage Fashion Guild's Lane Bryant tag dating. Very helpful stuff.

Enjoy!

Chocolate Cotton Garter Belt? Why not!?

I decided I need a new garter belt. The one I made has done so well, and it works great, but the fit around my hips is lacking. I actually made it too short and it mostly sits on my hips like a mushroom. I wanted something a bit more fitted.

I wanted to experiment with draping, and took some muslin and fitted it around my hips first, darted it at the waist and marked with darts. I made sure it fit snugly and then cut out the fabric.

I used a rather utilitarian fabric for it, mainly because it was all I had in the house. The chocolate cotton has a real nice give, and I thought it would do great. I also love this design, because no overlocking involved.

I darted the fabric, then flipped the two pieces right side to right side, added the grosgrain for the straps, then sewed them together.

I wanted some ease, so I added some elastic gussets to the front and one in the back.

I added the waist band, then the buttons, which Ill admit, I went a bit overboard with. They are from my vintage collection, mens underwear buttons from the 1900s.

I think they make the belt look rather steampunkish.
So I added the garters and now its all done.

I tired it on and it fits real well. The pattern is a real great fit, so Im happy that I did it. I plan on making a couple more, and I also plan on making the 40s long line bra that is from my repo pattern to match this one in the chocolate brown. I think they will look great together.

The finished images can be seen on NVL.
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