NewVintageLady

Chambray Beret

Its finished!
View C

More photos on NVL.

The beauty of simplicity: conclusion.

Done and done.

I did run into a few problems, one was me thinking I didn't need to use stays, but I wish I had. I'll mock up some from Onda and use them on the next dress, which I've already cut out.

Left over wool crepe I've had for a long time. This one will be a two tone number.

More photos of the linen dress on NVL.

The beauty of simplicity: progress.

I am loving this dress.

I can't stop thinking about it. I would have finished it last night but I took a nap and woke up too late to work on it.

So far so good. One thing I took into consideration while working on it was how I was going to do the gathers. The front bodice, front skirt, and back bodice all have them, but as in the picture, they are rather soft and loose. If I were to do them by machine (via a basting stitch) combined with the thickness of the fabric, I thought they would be too tight.

I decided to do a running stitch by hand at all the gathered points and I'm glad I did. I love the softness of the look.

I did have one largish mistake.

I cut the armholes on the bodice a bit too low, so I just added a piece. I think it makes a rather cute design element.

Another challenge was the decision to use a zipper on the front bodice. I have this vintage Talon that I wanted to use but the more I looked at it, the more concerned I got. I didn't want to alter the zipper in any way (cut it down) and it was a bit longer than I wanted so I came up with the decision to run it down the whole front. Turns out the zipper isn't long enough to also have it serve as the hip opening to get into the dress, so I didn't have to adjust the front to use it, which made my job a bit easier.

I took the bands that I made an sewed them to the front, then bumping them up to the zipper teeth, I did a whip stitch to hold the opening in place.

I pinned the zipper to the back then flipped it over and re-pinned the front.

Got out my zipper foot, stitched in the ditch of the band, and there you have it.

I did have to do some inside stitching so the flap covering the zipper was not as wide, but thats not too big a deal. The whole thing lays rather well so I'm happy with it.

I do have to add a side zip, but thats fine.

The neckline is looking good as well and once I get the band sewn on, and the sides together Ill do a for real try on.

I'm excited!

The beauty of simplicity.

I love this pattern. I adore its sparseness, and Im a sucker for gathered necklines. Its a pattern that is only 8 pieces. I think thats cool. Its such the height of WWII efficiency combined with style.

I couldn't wait to get started on it.

I graded the pattern and cut it out in a great dark linen chambray. I got it by the pound from a giant fabric bin at one of my favorite fabric stores. Oh, how I love getting fabric that way. You can stumble on the most delightful treasures.

Its a heavier linen than the previous double breasted dress and I made the sleeve three quarter so it will wear well in the winter. I'm going to change up the front a bit, and use a slide fastener (zipper) down the front bodice.

I always like the look of those rare dresses from the early 40s that had zippers (pre rationing).

I also cut the band for the neckline on the bias (as seen here above the front band that will cover the zipper).

I think that will be better than the strange band shape that is provided with the pattern.

Once I overlock and prep the pieces, I'll knock this thing out in an afternoon.

I even have enough fabric left over to attempt this super cute beret topper,

view C.

I'm planning to wear it to a party this Sunday.

Linen NRA dress, a daytime version concluded.

It turned out pretty well. I like the buttons and the accessories keep the dress from looking like a maid's uniform.

When I was taking the photos, I couldn't help but think of this photograph. My great Grandmother is the one in the light colored dress.

A few more pictures of the linen dress are on NVL.

Linen NRA dress, a daytime version's progress.

It's been a while since I did a progress report on this dress. Mainly because every time I tried to start on it I got side tracked. Yesterday I dedicated most of the afternoon to working on it with only a distraction of taking Georgia for walkies to pick up some dog food.

I managed to piece together the front and back gores of the skirt. I construct my dresses rather unconventionally. In order to have good line up of the sides, I always attach the back of the bodice to its skirt, and the front to its, and then match them by the waist seam and sew both sides of the dress in one swoop (well, two really). That way I get to work out any unevenness of the arm holes or drape of the skirt and not have to worry much about pulling from a seam that might be a bit slanted if I were to attach the skirt to a finished bodice.

This bodice, because of its one piece shawl collar was a bit of a hassle. I had to construct the shoulders of the bodice, and for a bit of stability, I sewed down the side seams about half way. I really hate having to re-sew an area, like I'll have to do with the sides once I make the entire dress. Its a lot of duplicate sewing, and that's a personal peeve of mine.

Generally when I sew, I try and mentally work out a process that will have me make the fewest construction stitches as I can. That does not always work, but its a fun mental exercise to do none the less.

I wish I would have been able to do that with the bound button holes.

They went as you would expect. I didn't mean that sarcastically. They were fairly uneventful. I did narrow a few of the stitches, but thats no big deal for the number of them I did on this bodice.

Once I cut them open and turned them right side in, I hand tacked the fabric to the back facing.

Then I marked the placement on the facing for the button holes, sewed machine button holes in that piece and matched it to the bodice.

I sandwiched the bodice, collar, and facings together and sewed in one pass, yeah! I then notched where it needed to be notched and flipped everything the right way in, or out, or a round. Whatever. Finally I hand tacked the sewn button hole piece to the back of the bound holes.

Ta-da!

After that I pinned the skirt to its respective partners and I'm waiting for daylight to sew it all up.

I really like the collar on this one.

I paid a bit more attention to the drape as it was on the pattern envelope and using my slopers for fit (yay slopers!) I did raise the bottom up just a bit after the fact because it was covering one of the button holes.

I love the way it hugs my upper bust. Mmmm.

Finishing up a few smaller parts of the dress, I managed to complete the cuffs as well. The pieced sleeves are a bit uneven compared to the cuffs, but thats not a big deal at all. I think Im going to cut that part down and pretty it up with some soft cotton lace before I turn it inside and tack it down.

Even found the perfect buttons to work with this dress.

They are late 50s, but they are the right size and color so big whoop. I do like the box, and the note on the bottom.

Working on this dress has made me think of some...not lost projects, but some I've put on the back burner these past weeks.

My black plaid skirt.

I stopped working on this one because I used a zipper that does not have a locking pull so it kept opening it every time I put it on and I don't want to take it out. I think I'll use a hook and eye as a stopper, but I don't think that will work right well.

My drafted cloche.

Stopped working on this one because it was too warm for a flipping hat. Oh how the seasons have changed.

My ticking girdle.

I stopped working on this one because Aunt Flow was visiting (FLOW!!!). Never make a girdle when she's in town. There is no quicker way to make you feel gross about your body than that. I decided to try it on yesterday just for kicks and when I was first working on it, it took me 20 years to get it all hooked up. I managed this time in a couple of minutes! So now I have new motivation to finish it.

I think I'm going to take this month to knock these projects out.