I cut out my 20s dress today.
Im normally a spread and shift kind of gal when it comes to grading, but because I already had a tracing of this pattern in a 42 bust, I Decided to give the old slash and spread technique a try. This dress is fairly simple, and I knew the upper bust would fit fairly well, so my main concern was the full bust and the hips.
The dress is suppose to fit loose, gunny sack like, I suppose, so I didnt have too much worry when I was doing it. I laid out the pattern, put on the bra that I was going to wear with the dress, and measured myself.
First off, as I always do on every pattern I ever make up, I lower the angle of the shoulders.
I apparently have rather flat shoulders, and no neck, so I always have to cut the back of the blouse/dress as well. Those are default alterations for me.
I knew I didn't want to bother with the yoke because I knew it was fine the size it was. All I really had to do was extend the bust about an inch and a quarter, and lengthen the dart. By the by, tomato paste cans make excellent fabric weights.
After the cutting and alterations of the pattern, I checked the matching sides (because this pattern has no notches) and was pleased with the outcome. I am going to add a gusset to this dress because of the kimono (or as the pattern says 'kimona') sleeves for more flexibility.
With the back of the dress, I had to really taper the waist, as I um...have, um...shelf butt. We all have imperfections, lets move on.
Now onto the detailing fabric. I did use my 40s vintage fabric, and as with everything that Ive made from it, I made sure I cut the tightest pieces I could to save as much fabric as I could.
Actually, Ive become rather good at doing that, vintage fabric or no. I did use linen for the backing of the accent pieces. I didint want to cut two if the vintage fabric. Why waste I say?
So I have the dress cut out, and while searching online, I saw this super cute NRA bag. I have to make something like it. I have wood handles like this, so all I need to do is choose a nice fabric and Im all set!
Im excited by the dress. Im going to tailor tack a few marks (mainly the bust darts) this evening and overlock all the pieces tomorrow. I will probably be finished with midday tomorrow, if I get my act together.