Playclothes Friday: Early man's Tuxedo jacket with tails

Hello everyone.
It's a good morning today, yay marriage!
But onto a much less important thing, repairing vintage clothes!



This Friday I have a very unique item. A 1890s tuxedo jacket with tails. This is more a commentary of the restoration work I did on the garment, as it really needed a lot of inside repair work.


The lining for the sleeves had been completely redone at some time, and now that work needed repair. Men sweat :)


A lot of popped seams. Most unreachable because of how the garment is constructed. It's almost like going back in and relaying the foundation of a house. So I did a lot of top stitching.


As someone had did before me.


Fabric covered buttons starting to show their age. I didn't do anything to them.


The boutonniere hole had been closed. I think I opened it :)


This was a shame. the front of the pocket got so worn that it tore.
Inset pockets are already delicate, so I can imagine all the decades of putting in and removing your handkerchief for your brow or a lady must have been taxing on that area.


Repairing something like that is kind of patchwork only. There is no real fabric to work with, so I did some top stitching. It looks totally better than this washed out picture.

Just a side note, look at that weave, beautiful!


I also sewed pretty much the entire lining, especially around the tails.


It left my hands wearable, but I can see it more as costume than an actual statement piece. It's past it's prime. If it were mine, I'd totally make a pattern of it. I'd love to see it's guts in more detail.

Okay lovely people.
Have a great weekend and happy sewing!

3 comments:

  1. Wow, think of the stories that jacket could tell!

    ReplyDelete
  2. I've repaired a few of those cutaway tail coats, usually you can steal a little fabric to recover the buttons from inside the tail. The trouble is: you won't find a new button as nice as the old ones. In my dreams, I find a huge stash of those at a yard sale that are complete sets.

    Thanks for the huge photos; smiling at the details!

    ReplyDelete
  3. I always get a kick on working on men's clothes. They are so robust. I think its because us ladies wore all our pinnings and just draped fabric over that heavy foundation. Men, it's kind of the other way around.

    ReplyDelete

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

Labels

1940 (653) catalog Sunday (436) 1930 (402) dress (400) progress (216) suit (172) coat (158) repro (153) cotton (146) pattern (116) hat (111) blouse (110) shoes (107) 1950 (104) 1920 (99) etsy (94) jacket (88) Chicago Mail Order (87) personal (87) day dress (86) WWII (81) Lane Bryant (77) separates (75) Wards (72) illustration (72) gown (71) butterick (69) skirt (67) day project (66) fabric (66) simplicity (65) vintageville (65) nvl (63) McCall (62) foundation garments (62) linen (62) pants (59) homemaking (58) event (54) music (54) sweater (54) rayon (53) cocktail dress (52) dubarry (50) flower (48) accessories (47) house coat (46) cmo (45) Sears (43) playsuit (43) wool (42) stockings (40) slip (39) Spiegel (37) make and mend (36) 1960 (35) purse (35) advertisement (33) hollywood (33) holiday (32) pajamas (32) robe (32) apron (31) showcase (31) buttons (30) catalog (30) gloves (29) National Bellas Hess. (28) dance (27) denim (27) dust bowl (27) furniture (27) dyeing (26) Man Month (25) drawing (25) In Memoriam (24) costume (24) overalls (24) NRA (23) navy (23) underpants (23) 1930s (22) MnM11 (22) men (22) sew-along (22) bra (20) cloche (20) children (19) giveaway (19) patterns (19) royalchrome (18) sewing (18) craft (17) hair (17) hats (17) jewelry (17) mnm12 (17) nightgown (17) silk (17) stout (17) velvet (17) CVTotI (16) PPP (16) 1910 (15) 1940s (15) jacket in a week (15) lace (15) Air Raid (14) bathing suit (14) beret (14) cape (14) quilt (14) swimsuit (14) MnM13 (13) collar (13) lingerie (13) loungewear (13) mail order (13) pictorial (13) repair (13) advance (12) alteration (12) dress form (12) rick rack (12) scarf (12) seersucker (12) socks (12) sweaters (12) MnM14 (11) food (11) girdle (11) men's (11) plaid (11) wardrobe (11) New York (10) border print (10) cicada (10) depression (10) piping (10) redingote (10) the gardenia dress (10) tiki (10) uniform (10) 1970 (9) anne addams (9) cocktail (9) jimjams (9) red (9) smock (9) bag (8) corduroy (8) evening gown (8) excella (8) family (8) marian martin (8) panties (8) sale (8) shirt (8) sleeve (8) tweed (8) underdress (8) National Coat and Suit Company (7) bolero (7) crepe (7) design (7) embroidery (7) flapper (7) garter (7) halloween (7) just because (7) knitting (7) movie (7) novelty print (7) pleats (7) shopping (7) slippers (7) toys (7) vogue (7) Phantom of the Opera (6) bargain (6) brooch (6) calico (6) classic (6) coats (6) color (6) costuming (6) expo (6) glass (6) handkerchief (6) notions (6) restoration (6) shirtwaist (6) sick (6) sleepwear (6) theater (6) zipper (6) applique (5) architecture (5) blackface (5) body (5) book (5) boots (5) cat (5) chambray (5) cosmetics (5) fashion (5) house dress (5) jacket in a week 2 (5) jumper (5) little things (5) maternity (5) mock-up (5) museum (5) necktie (5) party (5) photos (5) pimp (5) sweater dress (5) vest (5) 1945 (4) 1980 (4) Montgomery Wards (4) belt (4) comments (4) dog (4) elastic (4) furnishings (4) housewares (4) monogram (4) monster making (4) pattern making (4) pets (4) revolution (4) scallop (4) ski suit (4) swing dress (4) tappants (4) vintage (4) watches (4) wedding (4) 1800s (3) 1900 (3) VPP (3) WWI (3) beauty (3) cookies (3) corset (3) cuff (3) darning (3) deco (3) dicky (3) doggie (3) ebay (3) groceries (3) lindy (3) shirring (3) shorts (3) sporty (3) styling (3) summer (3) teaching (3) turban (3) upholstery (3) viva (3) winter (3) 1990 (2) PDF (2) SAT (2) UK (2) adventure (2) beach pajamas (2) beer (2) bloomers (2) blue (2) books (2) cardigan (2) chair (2) commission (2) cooking (2) couch (2) detail (2) diner (2) doll (2) feedsack (2) fur (2) gowns (2) handmade (2) hiking (2) interview (2) kickstarter (2) learning (2) lucite (2) makeup (2) natural (2) nurse (2) nylon (2) outsize (2) pin-tucking (2) pique (2) playclothes friday (2) plus size (2) raglan (2) retro (2) rings (2) ruffles (2) satin (2) sequin (2) singer (2) slacks (2) snoods (2) stripes (2) sundries (2) superior (2) thrift (2) two-tone (2) wearing history (2) woman (2) women (2) workwear (2) year (2) yellow (2) yoke (2) ADSLA (1) Brian (1) Casts of Color (1) Facebook (1) Hart Schaffner n Marx (1) Lady Day (1) Promotion (1) Rowman's (1) San Francisco (1) Steampunk (1) apple (1) articles (1) atomic (1) awards (1) baby (1) bakelite (1) baking (1) bar (1) baseball (1) batman (1) bead (1) bed (1) bedspread (1) berthas (1) bike (1) birthday (1) black people (1) blogs (1) bracelets (1) braces (1) burda (1) candy (1) canned goods (1) caplet (1) christmas (1) cleaning (1) clock (1) closet (1) comic (1) cosplay (1) custom (1) decorating (1) disaster sewing (1) dressing gown (1) drinking (1) drop waist (1) fagoting (1) fat people (1) felt (1) flocking (1) flooring (1) fonts (1) footware (1) fruit (1) gadgets (1) godet (1) grading (1) guest comments (1) gusset (1) halter (1) history (1) hood (1) hosiery (1) hygiene (1) instructions (1) kitchen (1) lamp (1) landmark (1) lawn (1) masks (1) mensturation (1) mid-century modern (1) mirror (1) misses (1) muppet (1) needle (1) notches (1) pandemic (1) patternbook (1) pearls (1) pictures (1) plants (1) plus fours (1) pocket (1) portraits (1) puppet (1) radio (1) raincoat (1) recreation (1) refashion (1) ric rac (1) rugs (1) sailor (1) savings (1) sci-fi (1) serger (1) shades (1) sharkskin (1) shawl (1) skit (1) standard (1) store (1) suspenders (1) swing (1) table (1) textles (1) thread (1) tips (1) tote (1) tour (1) travel (1) tv (1) twill (1) type (1) umbrella (1) veil (1) video (1) vintage outing (1) white (1) wrap dress (1) writing (1) yay (1)