Hi everyone! I've just finished the PDF version of my Three Hour Beret. This post is the detailed instructions of the beret. I though this would be easier.
The three hour 40s beret is a five piece cut away beret hat with optional top bow.
32"+ material 1/2 yard
32"+ interlining 1/2 yard
Headband 1" grosgrain ribbon 1 1/4 yard
This pattern has 1/2" seam allowance. Every mark is important for construction, so before removing the pattern from the material, mark carefully with tracing wheel, tailor's chalk, or thread markings.
If using light-weight fabric, such as jersey or crepe, use a sheet cotton with lawn for backing for interlining. If using a medium-weight fabric such as pique, linen, or fine flannel, use muslin for interlining. If using heavy material, such as milliner's velvet, or heavy wool suiting,
use lawn for interlining.
-Printing out the pieces.
With the pattern, the best way is to print two sheets of the pages with the crown tip
and crown side.
Cut on lines and piece accordingly.
Suggested layout on fabric.
It is suggested to interline the back strap on the fold for stability of the band.
Construction of beret.
Cut out fabric and mark appropriate markings on fabric.
On crown tip, from center of piece, to the back, sew dart to end marking.
Press to one side.
On crown tip, notch in 1/2" at marking.
Using center marking on crown tip, match side crown and pin together.
Sew to notch in crown tip, then pivot and sew until 1/2" of meeting end of piece.
Cut away the pivot fabric.
Turn beret right side out and press inside seam.
Take grosgrain ribbon and line it against the inner seam of the side crown
leaving 1/2" extra overlap.
Remember to leave open the marked spaces for the back strap to fit into.
Sew on ribbon and turn under edges.
If you want a bit more leeway with sizing, bring down the ribbon slightly
so the opening of the side crown is larger.
Face the back opening of the beret with grosgrain ribbon.
Miter the corner and sew in place with ribbon on correct side of fabric. Turn under and pin in place. Press flat then hand stitch down. Also, hand stitch down the sides of the crown tip seam allowance where they meet the pivoted seam.
You can cover that section with ribbon if desired. Once had sewing is complete, set aside.
Fold and sew back strap right sides together.
Turn inside out and press flat. Insert strap ends into openings on side crown.
Pin into place.
Match markings on back strap to those on the ends of the crown tip. You may also want to fit this on a bust and adjust as needed. Once placement is to your liking, sew the strap ends in place and hand stitch the back of the strap to the crown tip.
Set hat aside.
To give the hat its volume, a roll of padding is needed.
Make a rectangle on the bias 14" long and 6" wide.
Add cotton batting and roll batting to about 1" thick.
Whip stitch together tapering the ends.
Mark center of batting and match center marking to inside of beret.
Tack into place and tun beret right side out.
Smooth padding out for nice shape of beret brim.
Bow.Fold fabric for bow in half and sew one short side and the length together. Turn bow right side out and press flat. Fold under opening side and hand stitch closed. Using markings, hand baste crosswise on fabric and pull together and knot.
Fold over the markings to touch center mark and baste together.
Press matching markings together.
Turn over and fold under seam allowance on longest sides.
Hand sew knot to center of bow.
Hand sew completed bow to square in center of crown tip, or arrange it where you like.
Wear hat and make people jealous.